Thursday, November 9, 2017

Rome, on purpose this time!

This week's excursion took us to the wonderful city of Rome. As soon as we had left the station and stepped out into the streets it was clear that Rome was an entirely different kind of city, different to the "kinds" I had been to already. It didn't take long for me to realize that within this holy city lies the best and the worst that Italy has to offer. The monumental churches and and statues were a stark contrast to the prostitutes and the number of times I was offered drugs. The people were different too - all kinds of people, of different color, nationality, and certainly fashion sense. This, I suppose, is to be expected in any large city. 

I had gone to Rome with a particular interest in its history. Namely, its ancient history. Surprised isn't the word - maybe disappointed - I'd use to describe how I felt about most of the ancient relics and structures being long gone. It was, after all, the center of Christendom in the ancient world. I suppose the church saw little reason the maintain its pagan roots. This aside, there was still much to see, and much that was worthy of awe.

One of the few ancient relics that remained was perhaps one of Rome's most famous: the Colosseum. Built in 70 A.D. by Emperor Vespasian, this Flavian Amphitheater was initially a gift to the people of Rome, a means of making amends after the reign of the terrible Emperor Nero , who had initially burned down a village, where the Colosseum currently stands, in favor of a grand house and a giant bronze statue in his likeness. This ancient building would be the center of Romes entertainment for hundreds of years to come. All were welcome (unless you were an actor, former gladiator, or a grave robber), and entry was free. It was almost chilling to think of what people must have seen there, but at least many of the people who died were criminals (I guess.) A gruesome means for entertainment, to be sure, and some might argue that it was almost barbaric (and they would be right) but I couldn't help but wonder if we - the people - had changed all that much. Still, it was a sight to behold, and I'll probably be kicking my self for the rest of my life for being too cheap to go inside. 

There are many churches in Rome - truly you will find no end to them - but not all are equal. Some will leave you reeling with wonder, asking yourself how such grandiose dreams were ever conceived of in the first place. This, for me, was Romes most revered Jesuit church. St. Ignatius founded the Jesuit order somewhere around the 1500's. Ignatius claimed to have had a vision in which God had ordered him to become a soldier for Christ. So he founded an order that would go on to spread knowledge as well as the Word of God through the far corners of the earth. And that they did, and as they did so, they happened to gain a good amount of power and influence. Currently, one of the most famous Jesuits is none other that Pope Francis himself. When I went inside I was struck by the odd sensation of a rolling wave (not really, but... it was something.) Such is the power of artwork done in the baroque period. It was as though everything in the church was moving from one corner to another. Everything inside was alive. It was a little creepy actually. It was no wonder that this church had set the standard for all Jesuit churches to follow. I am not a religious man, but in that moment I was reminded that if there is a god, surely he/she is creativity its self. No matter ones spiritual disposition, it would be a mistake to visit Rome and not visit the church. [name pending!]  

Would that I could list all the monuments that stole my breath, but I will have to limit it to three (for now.) The oldest, and perhaps most important, relic of Rome's ancient world still standing: the Pantheon. Its survival is due solely to the fact that it was at some point converted to a church. Had this not been the case, it would have been used as a quarry, like the rest of its kind. Unfortunately what we had seen was not what it had been once. The bronze plating had been relocated, it's gods and goddesses torn down. It ached me to imagine what it once must have been. However, it still retained much of its former glory. The single cut marble pillars imported from Egypt, its hidden dome that inspired and aided visionaries like Brunelleschi in the pursuit of architectural perfection, its towering presence, all of these things do nothing short of amaze. It was, in fact, my favorite building out of (what felt like) hundreds. 

There is much that Rome contains. Its past is a blend of holy water and blood, it's people an accurate reflection. My only regret is not having more time to spend there (and not bringing a second jacket!) But I will definitely return, because I do not think a person can  truly absorb everything that it holds in one lifetime. 




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